Gourmet fare is not usually a priority of Simpson travellers. But for Andrew Dwyer the combination of providing a Simpson experience complemented by fine food is irresistible. Laden with fresh produce from Adelaide's markets and fine South Australian wines, we travel in two four-wheel-drive vehicles with a robust trailer, coupled to the main vehicle and designed to handle the corrugated roads and sandy condi- tions, serving as kitchen, cool room and water tanker .
By day two we are on the southern edge of the Simpson, camped at Lake Eyre South's Pelican Point. An immediate attraction is a nearby ancient mound spring -a surface expression of the Great Artesian Basin -fed by rain that fell an estimated 2.5 million years ago in the eastern ranges of NSW and Queensland. Apart from a few other isolated water- holes the mound springs are the only permanent water source in this country. Back at the camp, Andrew's evening meal is a veritable feast of Thai cuisine that would sit well in any up- market city restaurant. With the magnificence of the Milky Way dominating the night sky, the conversation moves from astronomical studies to the more esoteric concepts of life -as so often happens on a still desert night in front of a consoling campfire.

Next morning at first light Andrew and his assistant, Steve Baird, are preparing breakfast so we can break camp early and head for Oodnadatta. The track closely follows the Old Ghan railway line, once the lifeblood of the region and known for the interminable delays caused by storms washing out the tracks. At William Creek a single- engine Cessna casually taxis down the "main street" and parks beside the famous pub. A shower and a cold beer settle the dust, revitalising us for the next leg to Oodnadatta. Leaving the track for a secluded campsite, we complete the day with an Italian-inspired feast and dwell on the curiosities we have encountered -both natural and man-made - of the outback. One of the more unusual sights is the Pink Roadhouse, (where everything including the tow truck is painted a vivid pink) that looms larger than life in Oodnadatta. The owners, Adam and Lynnie Plate have made their mark on this isolated town. Their efforts in erecting hand- painted road signs and mud maps (predominantly pink) throughout the region is a sign of their dedication to extending a helping hand to others -so typical of outback life.

Then it's on to Dalhousie, an abandoned cattle station on the edge of the Simpson that is now part of Witjira National Park. Beyond the ruins of the old stone homestead are the hot mound springs where one can bathe and relax in warm waters -the last natural freshwater source until Birdsville. The springs and their surrounds are home to a large variety of wildlife, including dingos, goannas and waterbirds. In 1845 Captain Charles Sturt, on reaching the eastern edges of the Simpson, wrote in his journal, "...we saw that the ridges extended northwards in parallel lines beyond the range of vision and appeared as if interminable. To the east and west they succeeded each other like the waves of the sea…", Though our approach is from the west, these words best describe the view as we reach the top of the first large dune. These routes are now used regularly by 4WD enthusiasts eager to tackle the 1100 plus dunes encountered in the crossing

Unlike Sturt, who dismissed the desert as a virtual wasteland, it soon reveals itself as an ecological wonder comprising spinifex grasslands, gidgee woodlands,
Vast coolibah floodouts and numerous native plant species. Native and reptiles rarely seen during the day leave tell-tale tracks of their nocturnal wanderings on the dunes. After crossing the Nappanerica Dune (Big Red), the last and largest of the sand is a short drive to Birdsville. Accommodation at the pub provides a break from pitching camp, although it seems prefers, the company of the campfire to a hotel room.

From Birdsville we travel the old "inside track" -the original -to Etadunna Station, where at the homestead we view the 1952 documentary Back of Beyond that graphically depicts Tom Kruse's mail run from Marree to Birdsviile. Kruse took up to eight hours to travel 12km through the worst of the Naterannie dunes. From our overnight camp at Etadunna we travel in somewhat faster time to Marree, where its 'Ghantown', complete with mosque, is a reminder of the Afghan cameleers who settled here. We continue south to the Gammon and Flinders ranges for the final leg of our journey. The magni- tude and beauty of these ranges have a mellower feel than the flat, open landscape we have just travelled. We camp at Chambers Gorge where rock walls rise from a riverbed dotted with red gums. Inhabited by the Adnyamathanha people for thousands of years, the ranges are dotted with rock carvings. The pace of travel has slowed by the time we reach the Flinders, and early morning walks through the surrounding hills of the gorge allow us to investigate many of these ancient sites.
By the time we return to Adelaide, we have covered 3200 kilometres. As Australians we are indeed fortunate to have this unique wilderness in our backyard. Andrew Dwyer has developed friendships with many of the people who live and work permanently in and near the Simpson. Station managers, ringers and publicans have happily shared good yarns with our group. Combined with Andrew's intimate knowledge of the area and his love of fine food, this trip is a unique adventure not to be missed. There are no excuses. iust do it.